There were several busloads of people disembarking and I feared it would be one long crocodile for the next 19.4k and, indeed, when we set off there was the usual sorting out of pace allowing faster (or dafter) walkers to overtake and pass by the slower amblers. Tony always walks a very steady 'keep going' pace so it's usual for me to fall in behind him, otherwise I'm tempted to bolt!
The valley was still not touched by light as we walked the first section which took us into the foothills at Soda Springs following the Mangatepopo stream mainly along boardwalks. To the right of us Mt Ngauruahoe stood proud and forbidding and there were several discussions of 'Mount Doom' amongst the walkers around us.
The bus driver had advised us strongly not to climb it unless we were very experienced and had the right gear. It was a 'one step forward, two steps back' climb with very sharp rocks and a covering of scree. Apparently recently a woman had dislodged a rock on the descent which had taken out her husband walking below her, so the driver advised walking side by side! Thankfully not for us. The evidence of volcanic activity began from the start of the walk in the odd rock formations and remains of lava flow on the valley floor, but there were also wildflowers growing amongst the harsh landscape.
When we reached Soda Springs it was a quick loo stop before beginning the first ascent of the day which was the Devil's Staircase which sounded scarier than it was, more a typical Scottish mountain slog up through the rocks with the views opening up as we climbed higher, the early morning sun now touching the top of 'Mount Doom'.
This ascent took us to a new experience for me, the rim of the South Crater of the volcano, perfectly flat apart from the random boulders with towering walls all around. Walking across this crater took all of ten minutes and was a chance for limbs strained from the climb to recover whilst we took in the views: Mount Tongariro; the red screes at the top of Mt Ngauruhoe. One or two walkers broke away at this point to attempt the difficult climb whilst, thankfully, the climb had stretched out the crocodile and there were now fewer folks walking around us.
Once across the crater we reached the next ascent up Red Crater Ridge, taking us along the rim to Red Crater Summit. This was a little more taxing as the ground was less stable underfoot and there were a couple of places higher up which had fixed wires to aid with balance and movement up the ascent. The fantastic views were now 360 degrees and the red crater, with its deep colouring, was quite something to see.
Once at the top, Tony took his leave and the jelly babies, and branched off on the alternative route to the summit of Mt Tongariro whilst I continued up the spur to my first view of the Blue Lake shimmering in the distance.
It looked unreal as if there was just a sliver of blue rock resting high up on the bedrock. Also, from this point, could be seen the two bright Emerald Lakes below. I was grateful for my walking boots and poles on the descent to the Lakes as 'the path' comprised fine and unstable ash/soil and small rocks so there was much sliding. I had also packed my camera away before beginning the descent and so was able to focus on planting my feet and keeping my body weight close to the slope.
I passed a large German guy, in loafers, with camera in one hand, struggling. He fell in behind me but I was concerned he might send rocks down so I quickened my pace to put some distance between us. I paused half way down to photograph the Emerald Lakes, stunning in the sunlight of a perfect day. It was chilly at this height so made for good walking conditions. I paused a while at the Emerald Lakes to enjoy the views back up to the red crater, the rock formations displaying many colours and the mountains around.
Then it was another enjoyable walk along the crater to Blue Lake where I stopped for lunch amongst the low level brush and wildflowers.
Now, after a short ascent away from Blue Lake, affording magnificent views of the north crater and volcanoes (and Mt Tongariro) it was the very, very long downhill to Ketetahi Shelter and then on to the carpark.
The descent first contoured along the valley side giving good views of the volcanic activity (clouds of steam) at the Te Mahi Crater across the valley which is off limits to walkers.
The low cloud in the bottom of the valley obscured the view and created optical illusions which turned out to be reflections of distant mountains in the waters of Lake Rotaira as the cloud dispersed.
There was still no sign of Tony catching up so I ambled, photographing rock formations and plants and the steam venting through the rocks at the side of the path. There had been warnings en route about this being an active area with advice to get off the mountain as quickly as possible if anything set off.
Once at the spur, the track became an alpine descent with long zigzags making it possible to spot walkers above and below on the track, and where I finally spotted Tony just above me. We reunited at the Ketetahi Hut for a welcome stop and emptying of boots and socks and something to eat. There were several groups of walkers resting up here including one group of three Americans who were walking the route backwards. I think that way would have been much tougher and less pleasurable as it was a very long ascent in the full sun.
From the hut it was ninety minutes of steep gradient and lots of man-made steps which taxed the knees despite my walking poles. The final section to the carpark was through pretty forest with, at one point, warnings to keep moving as there was dangerous lahar activity close by.
Finally we reached Oscar the Van and drove down the track to our next commercial campsite at Whakapapa Village for very welcome showers and a restful remainder of the day. The crossing, including stops, had taken us 6 hours 25 minutes. It was an incredible experience within the most alien landscape with unforgettable views.
Tips for the Tongariro:
- Book the shuttle bus to take you from the finish carpark to the start of the crossing - they also do pickups from holiday parks etc (We used Tongariro Expeditions who charge NZD30 per person for the one way shuttle from Ketetahi Carpark)
- Get to the carpark early as parking places are limited and you will have a longer walk at the end if you have to park further away
- An early start gives you plenty of time to complete the crossing and be in time for your pickup (if you have booked one) at the finish. It also means you are not walking in the heat of the day on the early part of the crossing
- Wear good shoes/boots, preferably with ankle protection
- Walking poles are good if you have dodgy knees
- Carry plenty of water
- Sun tan lotion and a hat are a must
- It's cooler at the highest points so pack a fleece in your rucksack
- Check weather conditions beforehand and dress appropriately
- There are limited toilets at the start of the trek so get off the bus quick to avoid adding half an hour to your walk waiting in the queue! The last toilets are at Soda Springs and do not have toilet paper so pack some!
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