Day 23: Scary roads and wet feet!

Well today was an adventure in several ways.  We filled up with petrol and food in Picton and then drove south through Blenheim and inland to Ward.  The scenery was very similar to that we had noted in our last days on North Island but we could now see serious mountains drawing nearer in the distance further west.

Having decided to follow a track rated in the NZFrenzy Book, we paused at a small service station cum cafe to plan it out.  Back on the road, 8km south of Wade, we turned off SH1 to follow a gravel road for 12k.  The scenery was majestic, a vast dry river bed testament to the dry summer, rising hills and the mountains beyond.

The gravel track went through a wine estate with the valley providing a perfect micro climate for the acres of grapes.  The concern came as the track began its ascent out of the valley.  For the final three miles of the drive it became single track and very twisty with sharp turns around the spurs and serious drop-offs in to the valley to the right of the road.

I think we were both silently hoping that no vehicle would come the other way.  The final slope to the Homestead Parking had a sign showing a car on a very steep slope so, having arrived at something of a lay-by we pulled in and Tony turned the van around and parked.  This was a good decision because the final slope to the parking was indeed very steep and badly cut up.  We would have slid down it and we would not have made it back up in Oscar the Van.

The NZFrenzy book warned that this walk would be in the stream itself from time to time so sandals on, be-hatted and suncreamed and carrying plenty of water, we set off down the hill to the very pretty homestead, remembering to sign the visitor book left on a chair on the verandah.  Surprisingly, quite a few folks were already signed in!

The track took us past a field full of alpaca (?) and down to the valley floor.

From here on we were either following the paths on the banks, crossing from one back to the other or walking in the stream, the water generally just above ankle height but occasionally up to knees, very clear and refreshing.  The guide book warns that this is not a walk to do after heavy rain which would be too dangerous.

Gradually the valley closed in and we were scrambling over ever larger rocks, very white in colour and scoured by the water.  The area is limestone so there was evidence of rockfalls as well as a cave along the route.  It was enjoyable walking along the stream bed but I think I may have to throw away my beloved sandals when we leave New Zealand as they are taking some stick!

Eventually the stream took a sharp bend which we rounded under an impressive cleft of rock full of cracks which will no doubt come crashing down at some future date.

The gorge walls were now very steep but excitement was mounting as we passed a group of older women who confirmed we didn't have far to go.  It was indeed an amazing sight when we reached Sawcut Gorge itself, a huge vertical gash in the rock with different tones of colour coming through from further inside.  We could only explore it by walking in the stream through it - loved it!

We decided against continuing upstream to Isolation Hut as the guide book said it was more of the same and it was the Sawcut we had come to see, so we took some photos and retraced our route back downstream.

Our decision not to take Oscar the Van down to the homestead was a sound one as the 4WD vehicles had to take a run at the hill and found it slippy.  Tony carefully drove us back down the twisty section and eventually we reached SH1 and continued south.  The road eventually reached the ocean which was again a deep turquoise in colour.  To the west the Kaikoura range of mountains dominated the skyline and there were many stunning bays.

We stopped at Ohau to view the fur seal colony.  You are not allowed to go down in to the colony, quite rightly, but the view from the lookout is excellent as the rocks on the point form natural pools and hundreds of seals were playing or bathing in the pools/surf or simply basking in the afternoon sunshine.  Wonderful to see!

By now we had decided the day had been full enough and we called in at the first holiday park in Kaikoura that we passed and booked a powered site (Alpine Pacific: NZD48 for 2 people for one night).  These sites really are excellent and we have always found room.  After dinner we walked down into Kaikoura which seemed to be populated with young people/backpackers looking for cheap meals in the many fast food restaurants and bars,  It was a good atmosphere.